Wednesday, April 15, 2015 Think College Vol.30
Lecturer: Shinya Nitta/iichi director
Lecture series "Think College" to think about to listen to story of person working on problem in the world together.
"Using with builder, and theme of April making new relations of the hand."
How much will there be thing which face of builder occurs to who made in your everyday living including caliber to use as clothes and accessories, meal?
"Manufacturing" of Japan is going to change now.
Of people employing things which were full of the thought as for the consciousness in builder arrest, and person seems to be different from the past, too. We look hard at the change, and do the way and way of working of handwork in the future not think of what's called way of life, and eventually?
iichi (iichi) is service of the Internet. EC site that but is introduced to be "market place of C to C" well in the media that is trades individual vs. individual. Therefore it is "handwork" to sell. Builder is connected to person who was interested in products and buys and sells basically while talking. It is iichi that responds in that.
Originally I was in fashion business for approximately ten years. After sale of import brand, we change our job for net mail order. We did job that we went to visit baiingu of product to place in mail order page that is manufacturer and stocked of various fashion magazines for around eight years.
Therefore it was fashion magazine of natural system last that was concerned. Brand that "natural, careful living" was published only in concept had many makers which produced clothes in Japan. We did such an acquaintance with place for the first time, but, anyway, feelings of builder were great even if we obtained one cloth.
We did plan of print T-shirt with paste such as "skeleton tsukeryainjane here" till then if, for example, it was men's fashion magazine. We set price of 6,000 yen on such a product and were the times when 1,000 pieces sold lightly.
We received all the more impression in brand of natural system fashion all the more. As fashion changes, there is few; point……For me who ran after this, posture of people who committed to that we made thing was fresh. We fell into "manufacturing" to the full from there.
While it was sincere, and it associated with brand which faced each other for manufacturing, it came to be keenly aware of problem of "it is made in Japan" "to be made in Japan" that we was said well.
In the apparel industry, does Japan product know ratio among the whole? It is only 4%. ... 2% very 1% more in the latter half to knit, cut-and-sew. , e.g., and ordered from China if we make in large quantities cost is lowered, and maker mediating can show cheap price to retail store. Personnel expenses rise recently in China, and swing-back comes to come to Japan in fact.
However, Japan has neither person who can make nor factory anymore. Insufficient hands accept a lot of overseas interns and can do something. Demand for omoi breath and clothes itself dropped whether "domestic production" was barely restored in this. Population was at the uppermost limit, and market reduced, and it was not necessary to make a lot anymore.
Such a factor is connected with each other, and the domestic apparel industry declines more and more after all. Not only apparel, makers of traditional craft or so-called common life craft are the similar situation. The "handwork" whole is on the verge.
We do, and, in keyword such as "we are fine by manufacturing of Japan", there are attempts to make product collaboration rate craftsman and designer of folkcraft. Hearing is good, and interesting thing comes out for product, but but that is only temporary thing. It is a certain kind, feeling such as trendy article called article made in Japan. If the fashion goes away, we cannot but follow course of the decline again.
What should I do to make that "sustained manufacturing"? Do both this brand and that maker disappear without there being inheritor? Whether oneself cannot do something. When we felt fuzzy like that, we came across iichi.
We think that it is very interesting structure that builder comes by promotion by oneself, and can tailor-make while exchanging. If it is individual, production unit is possible from one point, too. We make thing which oneself wants to make pop, and that becomes products.
If this is apparel brand, we do exhibition and cannot make thing if there is not order of large amount of number to some extent. Dress that there might have been person whom 1 of 1,000 people wants is there out. But we can make that if it is personal writer.
Such a thing can embody ideas such as things which are rejected in the world, and were not made from one, and what is sent to 1 per 1,000 people that I want that is great. I who thought so hit email to president of iichi on the day when I knew iichi.
When it was the terrible ashamed hot and stuffy contents, but sent that as that was late-night around 1:00 if we saw in morning, he/she received saying "help a little". Then, as for me, it began "this!" from "how about iichi though we could not trade in house?" and place to offer to stock in own company while working as buyer though it was difficult when it found toiu builder.
The number of the writers at that time was still around 3,000, but builder became about 15,000 people from start of service in about three years. We have monthly, 400,000 visitors come to see now. In the people who like a lot craft or handmade product, sex ratio is one to nine. Article going up in site is going to reach 300,000 points soon.
※As of October, 2015, it becomes about 17,000 writer enrollment, nearly 350,000 points.
Traditional craft which punished the best of the style beauty and technique, folk crafts which utility and the durability had there……It is called life craft now. Then art work of creation to express thing which oneself wants to make using various expression technique. For oneself, we call these "craft" collectively.
It was slightly old story, but, in the U.K. of the 19th century, there was arts and crafts movement. The Industrial Revolution broke out, and industrial products were supplied in response to demand to grow in the times when centralization advanced, and mass production was enabled for population more and more. A lot of goods of poor quality became thereby sold in Europe. Therefore furniture designer called William Morris said saying "let's return to crafts with high quality by expert craftsman". That spread out more and more, and arts and crafts movement arose.
We feel like resembling that in the present situation a little. Both the times and backgrounds are different, but feel thing that way of thinking or feelings that want to return there are near very much.
Now as for anyone self-; produce, and can advertise, and there is sale tool which can have connection with customer directly like iichi. It is the very good times for builder. In this change, key which solved problem that people engaged in manufacturing decreased felt like there seeming to be.
Specifically, at first, there is "improvement as occupation of builder in value".
Even if remember myself, is so, but fashion looks at magazine; and "uwa, this are cool. Is arrival at this; if kicked, out of uncool obsession to be, made a figure that appeared there. It was stereotypic information reception very much.
When achieve occupation exposed to sunlight in fashion business, at first, press designer, buyer. It is people who are in place that all output. But we think that job that we output if people are not to make thing, and to be able to bring about may not consist. Actually, you are the coolest, and is existence that should be respected least people doing manufacturing?
We came to think that it might increase senses to want to get job to make thing to propose such a sense of values while respecting person who made thing through iichi.
We think that way of working diversifies afterward. For example, it becomes freelance in own repertoire in the Web industry and contracts with various company and we make use of crowdsourcing and wake up new job in oneself one on the Internet and we receive job from large company in Tokyo while being in district and live a life……Such a new style attracts attention. When that is applied to manufacturing.
For example, authentic grasshopper plane is not usually stuff in home. But there are many writers who want to use that. Then it is possible for way of thinking to make thing which oneself likes in remaining time while working as craftsman in factory with grasshopper plane. Fictionization may be made while improving skill as craftsman. There is method to tie studio, factory and personal writer and craftsman like that. Through iichi, we thought that such a matching might be enabled.
Photograph is craft fair Matsumoto lasting 30 years. By fair that around 260 sets of writers gather in forest Park of Agata of Matsumoto from the whole country, 50,000 people arrive for period of 3 days. It is the same level as Fuji Rock Festival. We think that it is market event to be able to happen if iichi is corrupted practically.
It was me who noticed fun of service in iichi, but, about fun of craft itself, realized only after going to Matsumoto.
Make really interesting mysterious thing; as people are a lot; "what's this?" Story begins with this. Connection with the person is done through conversation, and there is place buying as proof of the relations. For example, when they buy container of glass, of course people "who just looked for vase now" are, but people doing way of buying such as investment to support people saying "we try person tetawane hard in you last year" is saying "we buy this this year" are.
It is considered that person engaged in manufacturing has about 10 million people in the hobby industry. Market size to buy needle or thread, material, and to make something is about 400 billion-500 billion yen. This is equal to the game industry. Besides, this is just handicrafts shop or calculation of materials maker. In craft fair Matsumoto, there is person making a profit of millions of yen in three days, but such a number is not counted. Size of craft market supposes and works as kindred spirits and does.
There is "research by market size estimation of sensitivity value of Mizuho Research Institute, too". "Market of sensitivity value" produces sympathy and impressions by appealing to sensitivity of dweller, and that becomes driving force, and it seems to be that it is said with brought economic scale, but this is estimated with 2.5 trillion yen.
Please think. Interior and furniture, clothes, bag, life miscellaneous goods……Craft fits every daily thing. It is the field where a lot of possibility is still more.
Actually, a large number of people concerned arrive to craft fair from buyer of department store and select shops, galleries of the whole country. Therefore not only real buying and selling but also percussion of private exhibition in gallery arises. It may be said that new brand value is born.
We work on event to tie buyer and builder in iichi. As this was product for corporations, general person could not come, but when we performed in February, we established booth for writer of individual craft in exhibition of JEWELRY SALON and importer of accessory and had you appear to 30 writers. Shop of iichi is in Asakusa and Kamakura, too. We put thing wanting to actually pick up and to see, and it is here in gallery shop holding plan exhibition of writer whom we selected by oneself.
The apparel industry that there was ever me made it easy to fit gal and street system, "such as gal man, and to bind" and ", and to tell in" and was the world that laid market over there. But, about craft, it is never possible to lump together. We can gather up a variety of things changing by the times with craft, but motivation of builder is different individually. We make connection of builder and buyer while watching it closely.
What is a return of iichi rate?
A return of iichi rate is 3% or less. It is very low in comparison with catalogue mail order that is the public. As buyer and seller contacts individually and can be settled, we do not reach returned goods. In addition, it may be said that in the first place a sense of stability such as clean ready-made article is not demanded from thing made with handwork.
We have a feeling that EC sites such as iichi are popular in the world. How will this flow turn out?
There are none on day when it is not connected by our daily life in net now. But the Internet is only tool to be connected. EC site is the same as flea market in this sense. Rather will 109 (Ichimaru cue) of Shibuya that young people gather as for the wonderful future image that I think about be that it is in shop of all craft? We are thinking about wanting to open "living to use thing which somebody made" for universally as much as that.
In handmade boom, we begin to treat thing of writer who is not "teacher" and called person in department store either. What is demanded for craft and crafts will change by the times.
It becomes for leaving open like arts and crafts movement and thinks that it is interesting very much that today's people make adapted thing in the present way of thinking. We explore ways of working such as people doing writer as jobs, or there seems to be choice called "manufacturing" for one of new way of life simply because it came to be thought about various viewpoints saying "" to make.
Craft is recognized in more world and may be evaluated. We want to tell that to person using iichi.